Edinburgh Nights: Temple to the Arts

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Sitting on The Mound in the heart of Edinburgh is a Grecian style temple dedicated to the arts. If it sounds out of place don’t be fooled. Physically this ramped road links the two halves of historic Edinburgh, the cramped and jumbled Old Town and the elegant spacious New Town. The temple itself links the historic art of the past with modern contemporary and emerging Scottish art. It is a beautiful building in an iconic and unmissable site, and I think it looks best by lamplight, as was planned when it was opened in 1835.

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The Doric columns which adorn the temple, are typical of the Greek Revival style of architecture which you can see all around Edinburgh’s New Town. The Scottish enlightenment led to a love of all things classic, and William Henry Playfair, who designed the building had planned for a statue of Pallas Athena to sit on top of this eye catching site. She was considered the patron Goddess of architecture, as her temple in Athens was considered the touchstone of perfection for enlightenment architects. It never happened, but in 1844 a huge statue of Queen Victoria was placed here instead.

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The whole site underwent a redesign in 2004, and a huge underground connecting space between this temple, the Royal Scottish Academy, and it’s next door neighbour the National Gallery of Scotland, expanded the exhibition space enormously. The traditional style lamps and wrought iron railings were replaced at this time, and I love the lighting effects these old fashioned lamps produce at night. You can almost imagine the clop of hooves as carriages drive past, and the swish of long silk skirts up the stone steps.

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Some things just look better by the soft light of lamps. Edinburgh is full of many such lovely spots, which look magical at night, when the shadows of history lean in closer.

See more nighttime shots at this weeks WP challenge.

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Awakening Change

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It takes but one stone
To break the tranquility
Of peaceful slumber.

Nothing is ever the same, as the ripples of change spill like liquid silver across the water.
They roll in mercurial hoops, out towards the edges,
And yet, the hills and the sky, the sun and the water all remain.
The earth keeps turning
And our breath flows ever outwards and inwards
As we rest our feet on the soft green earth of Alba.

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An adventure on the edge: Isle of Lewis

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Come with me on an adventure, away to the far north west of the British Isles. We need to travel over many mountains, through the heart of the Cairngorms and on towards Kyle, and then we start to cross the waves. We move away from the safety and certainty of the mainland, out over the sea to Skye. Then travelling north and west through the Coullin, we finally reach the tip of the Isle of Skye at Uig, where we can gaze out across the Inner Minch to the distant hazy Isle of Harris. It already feels remote with an empty fresh breeze filling our lungs, and a silver silence ringing in our ears.

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Once our feet have found the steady earth of Harris, we head ever North and West, with the sweet songs of the blue men of the Minch ringing in our ears. Eventually passing over Harris and then Lewis, the land runs out, and we are standing as far north and west as you can get on the British Isles. The wind tastes sweet and empty, and the waves roll and crash onto some of the oldest rocks on earth. Broken and chiseled into arches and caves, the ancient stone faces gaze silently out over the blue ocean.

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We stumble onto a golden beach, where the rocks have settled into the features of an old bearded man. He gazes with his wind filled eye, out across the Atlantic towards Canada. Hundreds of his children sailed across these foam crested waves towards a new life, on an unknown piece of the green earth, far away over the ocean. Yet here on the edge of Lewis all feels settled , as though peace has reigned for thousands of years, watched over by the sea goddess Seonaid.

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Here, on the soft golden sands of Eoropie, among the blue rolling waves, people have offered ale to the ancient sea goddess, for hundreds of years. In return she threw a harvest of soil enriching seaweed onto the beach on the spring and autumn full moons. Sharing the same name, I felt an affinity and waded out into the strong blue green waves.

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The adventure had just begun, as the warm blue waves washed and tugged at my old soul and my old body. Everything could be renewed here, anything could be released, and the soft silk whispers of the sea breeze promised eternity, while the sparkling stars of the sun birthed me back to the here and now.

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Click here to find out more about visiting this beautiful spot.

Click here to visit more adventures at the WP photo challenge.

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Summers Feet

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Summers frothing wave.
Always the earth spins faster
With its little feet.

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Dialogue in Stone: Callanish

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Away on the far North Western corner of the Isle of Lewis, which itself sits on the far Northwest of the UK, there lies a dialogue in stone. Written over 4,500 years ago by our Neolithic ancestors, it’s message has travelled through time to reach us here in the 21st century. However we need to tune our eyes and our senses back into nature to begin to understand any of this ancient dialogue, because at first glance it seems an unsolvable mystery.

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As we wandered through the stones, sometimes we would come upon other visitors, hidden until we moved round and through the ritual space. “Why did they build it here? What does it mean? Why?” These were the conversations we stumbled into time and again on this enigmatic piece of ancient history. The stones are gathered together in a central huddle where they seem to be whispering long held secrets. They lean in towards each other, and the pink, white and grey lines of their bodies glitter and shimmer in the shifting sunlight. Your eyes will find faces morphing in and out of sight even as you hold them steadily in your sight.

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Made of Lewisian Gneiss, they are the ancient bones of the earth, the oldest rock in the UK, and one of the oldest on the planet. They are aged at 3 billion years, two thirds of the age of the earth itself, and it seems fitting that these old stones were raised towards the sky as a gesture to spirit. They seem to weave the sky and the earth together in their stoney dialogue, and their bodies glitter as though filled with the stars of the night sky. The stones form windows which frame the landscape laid out around them, and split the sky into portions. The earths slow rolling movement through the stars of the night sky can be seen and measured using these stone windows, and the turning year can be timed.

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We visited the stones at different times of the day, and the atmosphere changed with the light. Different faces of each stone were lit as the sun rolled over the sky, and their shadows shortened and lengthened over the day. The beautiful folds and swirls draw you in and whole landscapes can be found within the flowing lines. Each one has its own story, and if you lean back and listen for a while, these stories seep in through your pores. Magical white fairy cows walked up out of the waves of the sea, stretched out below this hill, and here on this very grass they gave milk to all who asked. Tended by the beautiful shining white goddess Bride, these white skinned, pink eared creatures sustained and nourished the people of the stones, with natures infinite bounty. Weaving the magic of the ocean, with that of the earth and the sky, the stories deepen, leading us further into the minds and hearts of our ancestors who’s hands placed these giant stones. The local people call the stones fir bhrèige (‘false men’), and with their swirling faces and leaning bodies it’s not hard to see why.

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Standing on the crest of the Hill of Sorrows, they seem so much like figures of people, that I imagine they might start walking any moment. Pulling their glittering cloaks around their shoulders and hurrying in towards the centre of the circle. When you see them from a distance they look so elegant and slender, but when you stand with them you are left feeling small. There is a dialogue between the circle, placed here, and the many other stones and circles which litter this landscape. This circle is having quite a few different conversations out across the island, and in the southeast it draws our attention to the mountain range known as the Sleeping Beauty away across the moors. The Cailleach, or veiled one, lies sleeping on her back, and every 19 years the moon rolls across her body. The moon and the tides, the sun and the crops, all were woven into stories here around the circle of ancient stones.

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It’s said that at Midsummer the shinning one walks here, on the beautiful green earth, and why would I not believe it…..here on the earths edge, bathed in light and washed by the blue waves and heather scented breeze, anything seems possible.

To see more dialogues in images visit this weeks WP challenge, dialogue.

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Mystery in Stone

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We travelled as far North and as far West as you can in Britain, and we found the oldest mystery cast in stone. I have so much to tell and share, but for now this is a tiny taste of the delights we have been surrounded by for the last week. This is an evening shot of the beautiful and enigmatic Callanish stones, which sit on the west of the Isle of Lewis. Built 500 years before Stonehenge, they dwarf the more famous site in size, presence and setting. I hope you enjoy the peep.

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Mountains, Clouds and Lochs

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We packed up and headed North again on Monday. Those of you who have been following for a while will know that we are heading to the West coast village of Plockton, but the route there is stunning, no matter how many times I drive it. Each season brings something new, and the clouds and sun are never the same twice, giving us a magical show played out across the mountains. Once we’re over the Cairngorms the scenery opens up into a wonderful display of lochs, glens and mountains, and I thought I would share a few of the views we passed in soft evening light. The first one is taken looking up Loch Garry, not far past the commando memorial.

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This beautiful sunburst is taken just round the corner, looking back up Loch Loyne. It’s a fresh water loch which always seems to have some stunning lighting and cloud effects over the mountain layers falling away behind it, but on Monday it was breathtaking. The atmosphere of clouds, mist and shimmering water weaves the air of mystery and awe which is so abundant on Scotland’s West coast.

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Not far round the next corner the sun was piercing the clouds above Loch Clunie, to give us this beautiful light show over the water. The rays of light bursting through the clouds gives such a beautiful sight that you can’t help sighing with pleasure all along the edge of this man made reservoir.

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Then we head into the beautiful and atmospheric Glen Shiel where the ghosts of countless warriors lie just beneath the heather and peat. It’s a beautiful peaceful Glen on a warm summers day, but when the clouds gather and light drops the spirits come out to play.

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It’s not far now as we pass along the mainland side of Loch Alsh, looking out over the water towards the mountains of Skye. The clouds begin to split and patches of blue sky appear. The sun lays a trail of sparkling stars in her late light, and the soft green hills welcome us back. Another beautiful drive, which can only remind me over and over that no moment, no sight is ever repeated. All we can do is to drink in life as it unfolds around us, giving us moments where it seems as though the divine might just have opened the clouds and touched the earth. But if we don’t stay awake we might miss the whole beautiful show.

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Swan Lake

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On a steep hillside, overlooking the Firth of Forth, near its mouth at Dunbar, lies a hidden loch. Cloaked on all sides by the remnants of the ancient oak woods of Lothian, it has side stepped the passage of time. Nothing much here has changed since the old Votadini tribe watched the Romans sailing up the coast.

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Undisturbed by boats or fishermen, the clear fresh water is fringed with lush green reeds and irises, and planktonic algae. The perfect haven for a family of swans.

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But they were shy, can you see them in the shadows or the oak trees? Such well behaved children waiting for their parents to say it was safe. I couldn’t quite see how many there were, and then they ventured out.

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They looked so relaxed and happy, swimming in a neat line through the green fringed water, but mum and dad were ever vigilant at the front and rear of the line. Compared to the swans I often see in huge groups, this compact family were less tense. There was none of the usual jostling for position, or for the potential food people might bring, and they kept their distance from me and the dogs.

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You could feel the connection between mum and dad, on either end of the line, and I wondered how long they had been together. Swans are very faithful lovers, mating for life, and it seemed that this couple had found a perfect quiet retreat to raise their young far from the madding crowd.

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When the loch narrowed a little further along the banks, I was able to get a little closer. I was filled with a simple glowing happiness watching this peaceful and contented family. Many of the tales about swans have an air of tragedy, but I felt no sadness here and remembered that swans were seen as embodied gods and goddesses by our ancestors. They travel to our world in the shape of swans, often in pairs, and certainly there was a heavenly feel to this beautiful family.

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They have such a sense of presence that I can see why our ancestors felt they were embodied deities, or sometimes enchanted humans like the princess in Swan Lake. Linked to the sun in almost every culture across the world, the sight of them brings joy and light and calm beauty. Here in Britain they were associated with Lugh and Bride, both golden solar gods.

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Here is the view back down the oak fringed loch, or swan lake. It was such a tranquil scene, no wonder the parents chose this as their home. This would be a beautiful view to wake up to each morning, and I’m certain that there are days when the rising and setting sun will be beautifully reflected on the mirror of water. Watching the swans had slowed me down and brought me beautifully into their world and their pace. The perfect place to mindfully come into the present moment, where everything is alright and at peace.

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For the fact lovers, a group of swans on the water is called a bevy, but in flight they are called a wedge. The origin of the name is linked to singing, derived from Old English swan, German Schwan, Dutch zwaan and Swedish svan. All of these are derived from Indo-European root *swen (to sound, to sing). They sing silently of beauty to our minds and hearts.

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Wisdom of a Broken Tree

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I was walking yesterday, among the ancient twisted oaks, as the tail end of a hurricane swept across the land. I was sheltered on the forest floor, but high above me the branches bent and strained in the high wind, creaking and complaining. The leaves fluttered wildly in the wind stream, sounding like rushing water, and the energy of the storm excited everything. The dogs were a little wilder than normal, and all across the dry earth path, the tips of high branches lay scattered, thrown to the ground by the storm.

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Then ahead my path was blocked by a sad sight. One of the ancient oaks had cracked and it’s huge old limb had fallen to the earth, still attached to the trunk. Despite the huge crack it’s leaves were still lush green, and then as I approached, I saw something amazing. Beautiful red ribbons were fluttering in the wind.

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The motion was so beautiful, and the sight so amazing, deep in the wild woods. I was entranced and mesmerised, full of wonder and questions. Who had tied these beautiful ribbons so carefully and artfully to the cracked oak tree? What did it mean? I stood in the wind watching and wondering, and coming back to myself at the side of the broken tree.

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It felt like such an intimate and loving act to bandage the tree in beautiful streaming ribbons, and such a gift to leave it here for me to find. And then I noticed the tiny hand made signs hanging here and there, scattered through the branches. Each one I read deepened my growing smile, but this one has stayed with me right through today, so I thought I would share it.
Such beautiful wisdom, found hanging in a broken tree. If we are in a rut which no longer feels satisfying or comfortable, we need to climb out and try something new.

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Enhanced Rock Textures

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Nature has created an incredible and beautiful variety of textures in the rocks of the earth. These rocks in turn shape the textures of the landscape and it’s feel. As we walk through the land we can experience the shifting emotions, of being within different textures of the earth. Our ancestors could feel this too, and were probably even more aware of the emotional textures of the landscape. They chose certain rock sites as having spiritual texture, and then enhanced what nature had already created. This stone channel is part of a huge complex of neolithic rock art at Lordenshaws in Northumberland. It is thought to be the longest hand cut rock channel in the UK, probably picked and deepened using deer antler tools. At the top of the rock are numerous hand cut cups about the size of my fist. The whole site is an intriguing mystery from thousands of years ago.

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This incredible cauldron like cliff was cut by nature, and given a wonderful linear texture. The rocks make perfect perches for the thousands of seabirds who nest here every year. Man has exploited this textured cliff for millennia, probably enjoying the eggs of the seabirds. Neolithic flint arrowheads have been found on the cliff tops along with ancient defensive walls. However it’s defensive position and great sea views were enhanced fully when Dunstanburgh Castle was built on the cliff top. There is a great sense of safety as you gaze out from here across hundreds of miles of glittering ocean.

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This beautiful rock face was carved and formed by the thrust of nature right across the centre of Northumberland. When the Romans arrived in Northern Britain they enhanced its defensive texture by adding Hadrian’s Wall along the top of its ridge. The wall flows and twists along the texture of the landscape, almost as though it sprang from the earth all by itself.

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These ancient cup and ring rock carvings are my favourite textural enhancement added by our ancestors. Found all across Britain, there are places where they are very concentrated, and all of these places have a special feel. A sense of the eternal and of power, and all of them were hand cut. Marking sacred spaces and doorways between the worlds these stone patterns whisper of wishes and prayers, of ritual and mystery. They are still here for us to see today, deep in natures heart, often a little off the beaten track.

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